Birdhouses, Bombs, and Bicycles: Highlights from Our Tour of Nijmegen

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On Wednesday, we toured Nijmegen, the oldest city in the Netherlands, a place where history and resilience meet at every turn. Founded over 2,000 years ago as a Roman military camp, Nijmegen has worn many hats: imperial outpost, medieval market town, and, in more recent history, a front-line city in World War II. Our walking tour took us from the bustling streets of the lower city to the heights where Charlemagne once reigned.

We began in the lower city in the early morning, where the Grote Markt was slowly coming to life. This lively square, framed by colorful gabled houses, has been the heart of trade for centuries. At its center stands the Waag, or weighing house, a 17th-century landmark where goods were once measured and taxed. Our guide brought the scene to life, describing merchants unloading barrels of beer, wheels of cheese, and exotic spices from distant ports. We also visited one of the alleys that had been lined with colorful birdhouses, which was like a small nature preserve in the city.



From there, we wound our way uphill toward the Stevenskerk (St. Steven’s Church), Nijmegen’s great Gothic treasure. Built in the 13th century, the church suffered heavy damage during the Allied bombing of 1944 in Operation Market Garden. Painstakingly restored, it now serves as both a place of worship and a memorial to the city’s endurance. Inside, sunlight streamed through stained glass, casting warm colors across ancient stone, creating an atmosphere that emanates both grief and hope. While in the church, one of the tour guides sang an acapella rendition of Amazing Grace to demonstrate the remarkable natural acoustics of the sanctuary.



Our final ascent brought us to Valkhof Park, once the site of Charlemagne’s imperial palace. Though only fragments remain of the medieval chapel and fortifications, the setting still commands breathtaking views over the River Waal. Standing there, you can almost picture Roman soldiers on patrol or medieval courtiers walking the palace grounds. The sweep of the river below reminds you why this hilltop has been strategic for over two millennia.

By the end of the tour, we were appreciative of Nijmegen’s history and its spirit. From the market stalls of the lower city to the lofty heights of Charlemagne’s domain, Nijmegen wears its centuries with pride, welcoming visitors to walk its streets and hear its story.

After our tour, Amanda went to the Velorama (bicycle museum), where she viewed the history of the Netherlands primary means of transportation. Her favorite bike was the "social convertible."



On Thursday, we will spend the day in Maastricht. Then, on Friday, we will arrive in Antwerp for our final weekend before heading home.


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